Fine food turns into fine art – Madonnina del Pescatore – Senigallia

 

 

Few of us go often to such a restaurant like Madonnina del Pescatore. And it is not only because of the cost. Mainly because there are not so many of this quality and most of the time you have to travel for it. This one worth a trip if you are on the Adriatic coast of Italy. We visited last year at a lucky off season time when it is not busy. The town Senigallia is not so well known among foreign tourist. It is elegant Italian seaside much different than Rimini which is just a stone trow away. It is shown by the fact that there are two restaurants with two Michelin star here. We choose this one to visit it seemed fitting more to our taste.

Colors and lighting creates warm atmosfere

It is very elegant in every aspect. Interior design, table-ware, furniture are all superb. Such as the food.

Looks like an abstract painting with this unusual green

The chef Moreno Cedroni had one star for ages and 2 Michelin star for more than 10 years. For two stars you do not just have to make good food you have to make a creative and unique one. In this case you can use the term artistic. You can feel that the chef considers himself more of an artist who makes edible art than someone who gives you food to eat. His dishes look like art pieces culinary joys enclosed inside. This functional art fulfills its duty when you eat them. Just look at the speciel abstract like usage of colors in his masterpieces. Like this one here with the unusual green. I am sorry for the photo quality but it gives you back something of it. That time he used different kind of mayonnaise which is quite rear in Italian kitchen.

Risiko one of their attraction. Tastes from around the world

There was another dish where fish was swimming in green sea. We ate the 8 course menu „Vicino alla tradizione” and of course the main focus is on fish but had a beef like dish which was fish too it was amazing.
One of their attraction comes at the end of the dinner. It is the Risiko which originally a strategy war game. They using its map to show different taste of the world as petit four. Very creative and tasty too.
Mr Cedroni leads not a simple kitchen. Which has a lot of risks. Complicated kitchens can be tiring but here they keep all your senses awake during the whole time. You can enjoy yourself.

Feels good to sit at a table like this

I have to mention the wines. In most of these fine dining places they selling way too expensive wines which makes the bill even heavier. In Marche this is different. Marche wines are very well priced and you can have high quality for reasonable price. Of course here they have wide range of carefully selected local wines for good price. All together what you get here for your money is really worth it. Many two starred restaurants are way too overpriced compared to this one. See it for yourself.

The perfect beef like tuna
Octopus with mayonnaise

 

Lasagna with frutti di mare – It is swimming in green sea
Tartufo nero
„Simply” a coffee

 

Ferry tale of two brothers and a golden fish (restaurant) – Gambero rosso – Marina Di Gioiosa Jonica – Calabria

Once upon a time there was a two Michelin start restaurant under the name of Gambero rosso in Tuscany by the sea. The scandalous chef Fulvio Pierangelini was so bored of his guest that stopped cooking. I had a chance to eat there and meet him. Besides the food it was not my experience of a lifetime. There is an other story more ferry tale like. There is an other Gambero Rosso in Italy far far away from the other a little bit further than the end of the world. The father and the mother founded the restaurant and when his two sons grew up they went to get to know the world to learn. After learning they came back and they started to run Gambero rosso. They might have met the golden fish one day because their dream came though. They made with passion and dedication a one Michelin star restaurant at the end of the world.
Not many foreigner go to the Calabrian part of the Ionian sea. It is the sea between the toe cap and heel of the Italian boot. Although is very nice and the Puglia part is busier this side you can call empty. Not many hotels mostly Italian tourist and they using apartments. The beach in most places are covered with stone not sand. Large calm empty waters with endless sea. Relaxing but some might call it boring.

This is the beach of Hotel Miramare

Marina Di Gioiosa Jonica is not a busy touristic center. You have only two hotels.The one which is near the center does not have the top floor finished. Prices low. 120 EURO in high season for four people for a suite. You wondering how a one Michelin star restaurant makes a living here? One which is open all year long. But they do. Due to local demand even winter time they have guests. Surely to start a business like this money is not a motivation. They need to have a lot of passion for quality and gastronomy to start such a place here. Two brothers make it with passion you can feel it if you go there. One of them is the chef and the other dealing with the guest. Just as it must be in Italian gastronomy fairy tales. Gambero rosso is obligatory if you are in Calabria. It is worth coming here from around Tropea and stay for the night. They specialized on fish and they buy the ingredients from local fisherman. Its not always the easiest but they manage. They have a huge and exiting wine cellar and collection. Have a look there it is under the restaurant. Visited twice one with children and I can tell you it was fun for them too. 

The bear is having fun too

Our daughter’s Teddy bear had to eat with us but the chair was too large for her so the waiter offered a big pillow to the bear. 
They make their own bottarga (salted cured fish roe) which they use often. If there are not many guest you can ask them for a tasting of it on its own. Their crudo (raw plate) is an attraction with scampi. 
The two brothers creating a kitchen far away from tourism from trendy places but their place itself make trends. If you around just go there and will not regret it. Even though the other Gambero rosso in Tuscany had 2 Michelin star we liked this kitchen more. 
http://www.gamberorosso.net/en/

Welcome bite
This is not fish wellcome bite
Crudo (raw) plate with scampi
And the pasta
And some more with bottarga on the top

 

And some more bottarga

 

More fish

 

Italian favorite deep fried plate

 

 

 

 

 

 

Off the beaten pass – Hosteria Alicina – Porto Ercole Tuscan seaside

I have to admit we like to use Michelin guide for finding good places. But it has some risks. You would never enter in a restaurant like Hosteria Alicina if you follow the guides. Actually even if you judge by the outlook you might avoid this place. It is not more than a small glass cage. It does not look fancy at all but if you enter and taste the food  you change your mind surely. Porto Ercole is part of the Tuscan seaside. The very southern area near Grosetto. It is a island like peninsula with exceptional natural beauties. It this area you find very posh places like Il Pelicano with rooms over 500 Euro and dinner over 400. The „island”is good especially for boating around and snorkeling. Porto Ercole is an elegant port and even this restaurant does not look elegant it serves the highest expectation of good Mediterranean seafood It is a real good experience. The sun is shining through the glasshouse windows and you are sipping a Tuscan vermentino with your octopus salad. What else you need? Good company I guess. They do not have a website but have a Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/Alicina-Hosteria-222248974633219/
As you can see from the decor they deal mostly with fish.
Octopus salad

Melanzane (eggplant) with cheese. The classic.

 

A beauty. Vegetable soup with fish.

 

Amazingly crispy.

 

That is what you call real fruity the mare.
And to finish with.